Next job is finding where you want to mount the Venom solenoid box.  I really don't care about being stealth, so I mounted it  against the firewall.  Venom supplies you with self tapping screws.  To help reduce vibration, adding some double sided tape on the back of the box will help.  Now that we have the box mounted and the line ran, we can now connect the AN fittings to the solenoid box.  The line from the trunk connects the the solenoid, and the line that goes to the intake pipe connects to the bottom of the box.  Tighten them hand tight then snug them with the 9/16ths wrench.  Then connect the power and ground wire to the battery.

Now it is time to wire.  We used the same hole in the firewall to run the wire harnesses.  Don't pull the blue injector harness through yet, since the end of the harness is needed to check the resistance.  Venom supplies the kit with more than enough wire taps.  The TPS (throttle position sensor) is located to the left of the throttle body, closest to the firewall in a wire harness.  In the wire harness, the red wire with the black tracer was the one we needed.  Use the supplied wire taps to tap onto the TPS wire.  After this is done, the wire from the Venom harness is simply pushed into the tap.  The TPS wire tells the computer what the throttle angle is so it can activate the kit.  The next wire is the ignition wire.  Right below the ignition coil (behind the distributor) there is a loom of wires and according to the Venom instructions, we tapped the blue wire and attached that to the wire harness.  By having RPM wire tapped, the computer can tell the RPM of the car for activation of the kit under the desired set activating RPM. The last wire is the O2 sensor wire.  For the best readings, we tapped the O2 wire right at the sensor itself (white wire in the exhaust manifold).  Not to worry, the Venom kit is OBD2 compliable.  This O2 an important wire within the kit.  When the car is started up, the kit doesn't become functional until the Venom computer determines that the O2 sensor is working properly.  Also, if the car starts to lean out, the kit will shut itself off so you do not detonate, which is a big plus.  Now attach the power and two grounds to the battery, the harness that goes to the solenoid box, connect the harness to the computer, and your finished.  We used the black wire cover for the stereo amp to hide the wires with.

Now that the main harness is completed, it is time to start on the injectors.  Once again, the supplied program tells you the exact color injector wire you need to tap.  First, remove the silver tabs around the injector harness and push the tabs in to remove the harness.  We cut back the plastic wire covers a little bit to get a better tap.  After all the wires are tapped,  follow the instructions on checking the resistance of the wire to ensure that all the wires have been correctly tapped.  After the resistance testing is finished, put all the injector harnesses back on the corresponding injectors.  To hide the wires off the injectors, we tie rapped them to the strut bar, then at the end of the strut bar we used a black plastic wire cover to clean up the wires.  Make sure you pull the injector wire harness through the firewall and connect it to the Venom computer when everything is completed.

We are almost done!  Now the fun parts, deciding where you  want to mount the LCD screen and the Venom computer.  For the time being, I have the computer sitting on the passenger side floor, when everything gets situated, I will mount it in the glove box.  The LCD screen comes with a metal base to mount it with.  The best place I wanted to have it was on the steering column, right in front of me.  After mounting the display, connect it to the wire harness that comes off the main harness.

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