Venom VCN-2000
In
the beginning the "project
nitrous accord" went through a few steps before landing on this system.
Owner & nitrous forum tech, Mark gives you the details. There were 2
systems previously used on the project car, the NOS and Zex systems.
Already loving Nitrous , I wondered about the new generation of nitrous kits, the Venom
VCN-2000. I got my hands on one, so I could answer everyone's
questions, how do the kits compare to each other. Well, I'll tell
you all about the Venom kit in this review. Complete with an install
guide, some facts I made up, and dyno results.
As I walked
down to my mail box I had a bit of a smirk on my face, knowing that my nitrous
kit was in. I opened up my little mail box and saw the pink slip,
"YES, its in!". I walked into the mail room, handed the signed
pink slip to the dreary old women, and headed back to my place. I get
back, quickly open the box and see this extremely large wire harness, and I
thought to myself, "Great, this is going to be a fun install." I
pick the harness up and unroll it. The harness was all pre made, with
connectors on the end of each wire. This relieved me, I didn't want to
spend all day assembling a wire harness. The harness included two grounds,
a 12 volt power, TPS (throttle position sensor), RPM, and an oxygen sensor wire,
accompanied with two other harness, one for the LCD display and one for the
valve assembly. Next to it was another wire harness for the injectors with four blue wires
and built in connectors on the end.
I then moved onto my next area for concern, the
instruction manual. If this manual was anything like the Zex's two page
instructions, I was doomed. To my surprise, there were twenty pages in the
manual. Venom even included pages that showed you how to double
check the wiring to decrease the possibility of damaging your motor.
The software that comes with the kit includes an extra program. The
program asks the make, model, and engine of your car. After all the
correct information is entered, the program gives you the color of every
wire you need to tap, which was extremely useful. Next day, install day.
I didn't get up too early, because the
instructions looked like it wouldn't be that time consuming. I then met
with my friend Nam and Angel, at Angel's house to help me with the
install. The only tool I
had to buy that I didn't have was a
voltmeter. The voltmeter only set me back $10, which was purchased at Wal-Mart.
The only other tools you need are just some basic hand tools and a drill.
First job was locating the stock firewall plug. The plug was already
punched out due to the fact that I have an amp installed in my trunk. We
then started to run the nitrous line to the trunk. I wanted the nitrous
line to be parallel in relation to the solenoid and tank, so I decided to run
the nitrous line through the middle of my car. It is also possible (and
probably easier) to run it under the factory kick panels.
Next on the installation list was the bottle
brackets. We took the brackets to a local hardware store and picked up
some bolts and washers to mount the the brackets with. The factory wood
cover in the trunk was stiff enough to mount the bottle on. We then
removed the spare tire cover and drilled through the board until the bolts fit
snug, increasing the
drill bit diameter as we went. We didn't have to tap
the intake, since it was already tapped from my previous kit. Since most
of you don't have that pleasure, I will tell you how to. Remove the intake
and filter, leaving just the metal piping. Then tap the intake with a
drill bit, increasing until the nozzle screws in. If you like, you can
have someone spot weld the nozzle into the intake pipe. Make sure you wash
out the intake pipe to get all the metal shavings out, then dry it, then
reinstall the intake.. Get out your 9/16ths wrench and tighten the an
fitting onto the line, not too hard though.
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